This is the call we are happiest to talk somebody out of. A good share of dead remotes and keypads are something you can fix standing in your garage in five minutes, and we would rather tell you that on the phone than charge you to come press a button.
Work it in this order. It goes cheapest and most likely to least.
Does the wall button still work?
Start here, because the answer splits the problem in half. If the wall button opens the door normally and only the remote or keypad is dead, the opener and the door are fine and you have a signal problem. If the wall button is also dead, skip everything below; that is an opener or power issue.
The lock button
Most wall consoles have a lock or vacation button. When it is on, the opener deliberately ignores every remote and keypad while the wall button keeps working. It exists so you can leave town without worrying about somebody with an old remote.
It also gets bumped by a broom handle, a kid, or somebody putting away a bike. If your remotes all died at once and the wall button is fine, this is the first thing to check. Hold it down for a few seconds to toggle it off.
Batteries, and the thing people miss
Remote batteries usually last a couple of years. Keypad batteries die faster because the keypad lives outside in Texas heat, and heat is hard on a battery.
The part people miss: a remote can have enough voltage to light its LED and not enough to transmit. A lit indicator does not mean a good battery. If the remote is more than a year or two old and behaving oddly, just replace the battery before you assume anything else.
Range that got shorter over time
If you used to open the door from down the street and now you have to be in the driveway, that is usually interference rather than a failing remote. LED bulbs are the common culprit. Cheap LED and CFL bulbs in or near the opener throw radio noise right on top of the frequency the remote uses.
Swap the bulb in the opener for one rated for garage door openers and see if your range comes back. It sounds like folklore. It is not, and we have watched it fix the problem on a lot of driveways.
The other range item is the antenna, the short wire hanging down from the opener. It should hang straight down and not be tucked up, taped to the housing, or wrapped around anything.
Reprogramming
Openers lose their memory after a board replacement, a hard power event, or sometimes for no reason you will ever identify. The learn button on the back or side of the opener re-pairs a remote in a few seconds.
Two things to know. First, pressing and holding that button too long erases every remote paired to the opener, so if you do that, plan on reprogramming all of them and the keypad too. Second, on a keypad you generally set a new PIN and then pair it, in that order.
The exact sequence differs by brand and by year. The manual is usually a search away with the model number off the opener label.
When it is actually the opener
If the wall button is dead too, if you can hear the motor hum but nothing moves, or if the opener responds to nothing at all with power confirmed at the outlet, the problem is inside the unit. On older openers that is often the logic board, and on units past about fifteen years old a board replacement is worth weighing against a new opener.
We install mostly LiftMaster, which is what about ninety five percent of our openers are, and we will tell you plainly when a repair is the better spend.
Short version
Check the wall button, check the lock button, change the battery, check the light bulb and the antenna, then reprogram. That sequence catches most of these.
If you get to the end and it is still dead, call (817) 789-7039 or send us a note. We cover North Richland Hills and the surrounding mid-cities, and we will tell you on the phone if it sounds like something you can finish yourself.